Killed by Desk

11 Brooks Headley - Chef/Owner, Superiority Burger ( Born Against / (Young) Pioneers / UOA )

Episode Summary

Food was always important to Brooks Headley, even while he was drumming in bands like Born Against and Universal Order of Armageddon, but he didn’t begin a professional cooking career until later in life. Starting in Washington D.C., Brooks traveled the country both with his bands and working at restaurants, before settling in New York and finding acclaim as the executive pastry chef at Del Posto. Later, he left the ultra-expensive white tablecloth world behind to open the wildly popular Superiority Burger, which now has locations in NYC and Tokyo. We talk to Brooks about figuring out what’s important to him, how his restaurant is an extension of both himself and the ethics he learned playing in punk bands, and how to be genuine and honest - as a leader, a musician or a human being. For Full Length Episodes And Merchandise Go To https://www.patreon.com/killedbydesk Follow: Killed By Desk Insta: @killedbydeskpodcast Twitter: @killedbydesk Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/killedbydesk LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/killedbydesk

Episode Notes

Links:

Superiority Burger - our core value: humility

http://www.superiorityburger.com/

Brooks Discogs

https://www.discogs.com/artist/934626-Brooks-Headley

Gorilla Biscuits

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gorilla_Biscuits

Flex Your Head

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5-c2oc5V-g

Born Against

https://www.noecho.net/features/born-against-flyer-art

Great Chefs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxCQF0UjBH4

Best Italian in Washington DC

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roberto_Donna

Brooks Headley Cookbooks

https://www.amazon.com/Brooks-Headleys-Fancy-Desserts-Award-Winning/dp/0393352382

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VXWL67/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0

Ramones Review 1976

https://www.nme.com/blogs/nme-blogs/morrissey-at-17-the-ramones-a-bumptious-band-of-degenerates-762330

How Not to Write a Cookbook

https://www.bonappetit.com/person/brooks-headley

GG Allin

https://www.loudersound.com/features/blood-and-guts-16-facts-about-gg-allin

Dicks

https://www.discogs.com/artist/262965-Dicks

999

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMw_u6t3eSU

Junkyard - Not Flex Your Head

https://badreputation.fr/epages/box28314.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/box28314/Categories/ARTISTES/J/JUNKYARD

Jon Hiltz’s House

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yMRjFHobic

https://www.discogs.com/artist/560236-Jon-Hiltz

Champiple

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5glk4D0yTfQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEDQG-XpCoQ

Sam McPheeters 

https://www.vice.com/en/contributor/sam-mcpheeters

https://www.vice.com/en/article/78dyya/the-dessert-psycho

Ian Vs Steve

https://pitchfork.com/news/62081-steve-albini-and-ian-mackaye-interview-each-other-about-their-long-shared-history/

Tonie Joy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4IOfN19JkA

That unique smell

https://happydonabelife.com/recipes/earthy-burdock-root-rice/

James Beard Award

https://www.jamesbeard.org/awards

Tomata du Plenty

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomata_du_Plenty

Pink Flamingos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVic8sNVjVQ

Union Square Farmer’s Market

https://www.grownyc.org/greenmarket/manhattan-union-square-m

Crif Dogs

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g60763-d425781-r129655028-Crif_Dogs-New_York_City_New_York.html

Coq Au Vin

https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=coq+au+vin&find_loc=New+York%2C+NY

Pizza for “Display Only”

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KSSkgBDMN9o/TyDTwf_gLpI/AAAAAAAAEAc/rewaw20zPPQ/s1600/PizzaCase.JPG

SB Japan

https://www.instagram.com/superiorityburgerjapan/?hl=en

Bill meant Woodside Thai Places

https://ny.eater.com/2019/8/23/20754728/thai-restaurants-food-nyc-best-elmhurst-woodsive-avenue

Academy Records

https://www.academy-records.com/

Georgia Diner

https://www.georgiadiner.com/

No Price Restuarants

https://ny.eater.com/2020/2/12/21130516/menus-without-prices-oped-nyc-restaurants

Co2 Shortage

https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2020/apr/20/carbon-dioxide-shortage-us-food-water-coronavirus

Tropical Fantasy

https://newsone.com/2022788/black-urban-legends-tropical-fantasy-soda/

Prune Plums

https://www.thedailyjournal.com/story/life/2014/09/17/septembers-best-kept-secret-prune-plums/15787313/

MIke Watt

https://www.heavyblogisheavy.com/2017/04/26/always-riled-up-the-knowing-is-in-the-doing-mike-watt-an-interview/

https://www.latimes.com/food/story/2019-09-03/mike-watt-minutemen-san-pedro-busy-bee

Episode Transcription

 

all right this is bill florio yo this is

 

mc charlie boswell hey everyone it's

 

dave harrison hey it's justine cannon

 

all right now today i killed by a desk

 

we have brooks headley he is the only

 

one brooks

 

is the proprietor of superiority burger

 

uh which sounds like a gorilla biscuit

 

song to me

 

i think that's the point so what did you

 

guys think of this one

 

hope they don't taste like gorillapod

 

thing is that a real food no i don't i

 

don't think so they don't serve alcohol

 

there right

 

they don't serve alcohol there that's

 

right i do have to say there was

 

an exorbitant amount of mentions of the

 

flex your head compilation so i feel

 

like that definitely has to be uh uh

 

the soundtrack for this episode that

 

sounds good it's not a bad record you

 

know it's funny like for how punk i am i

 

don't think i've heard

 

any of these classic comps that we

 

talked about because i hated compilation

 

so much that was pretty good that's it

 

you've you've heard every song on that

 

separately for sure

 

but so brooks was in born against

 

wrangler brutes he was in all these

 

bands with either sam

 

and or adam bill you remember that time

 

we played with born against and we

 

opened up for

 

cape fear with robert de niro that's

 

right and we and we drew more people

 

i did mention that show because brooks

 

told me about he

 

he took one of those shirts home and his

 

mom saw it i don't know if you remember

 

those t-shirts but it had like a cruiser

 

with like

 

something really big stuck out of his

 

pants and we saw like 14 year olds

 

buying them in bulk and we knew they all

 

just got thrown out so if you have one

 

of those shirts it's probably worth a

 

lot of money it's an amazing shirt i had

 

to google it as a huge born against fan

 

i was like oh i wonder if i should get a

 

born against shirt from my 42 year old

 

self and then i saw that design and

 

decided i was not going to do it

 

i sure as hell didn't take one so jesse

 

decided on a tattoo instead so

 

stay tuned for that photo you you've got

 

a born against

 

but i do have a good board against story

 

that i used to have a sticker of them in

 

my car

 

and a cop pulled me over one time and he

 

comes over he goes bored against

 

i usually see that one next to bad cop

 

no donut

 

and i said i don't know why there are

 

christian bands

 

[Laughter]

 

this is a fun episode it is a fun

 

episode i'll say for me this is the

 

first one we've done

 

where i've liked the person's music work

 

and their professional work

 

all right so brooks we usually start

 

this out where you introduce yourself

 

and what you do okay my name is brooks

 

headley

 

i am the chef owner

 

operator of a ridiculous six-seat

 

restaurant

 

in east village called superiority

 

burger i've also been

 

in a bunch of really ridiculous stupid

 

bands over the years too cool

 

so the restaurant industry is at least

 

on television notoriously a tough

 

business

 

is that true and why do you do what you

 

do

 

i just love cooking it's always kind of

 

been my favorite thing even before i did

 

it

 

professionally i've actually never felt

 

that

 

working in a restaurant was particularly

 

taxing

 

physically a lot of people seem to think

 

that um

 

i just i love every second of it even

 

even now

 

and during the pandemic when things are

 

really [ __ ] up like but even when i

 

started doing it and i

 

started working in restaurants in like

 

1999 like it's always

 

kind of been this thing that getting big

 

boxes

 

of amazing product and chopping it down

 

and making

 

making it smaller and then dipping it up

 

and cooking things

 

it's it's my absolute favorite thing i

 

mean technically playing drums is my

 

favorite thing but i don't really get to

 

do that too much anymore so this has

 

kind of taken its place

 

well i heard that you played drums and

 

set yourself to think about

 

food while you were drumming is that

 

right yeah i mean like when

 

like when i was in touring bands or

 

bands that were

 

very active and recording stuff like

 

that like it's kind of one of those

 

things where you always kind of want the

 

thing

 

that you're not doing so when i would be

 

playing at a show or recording or

 

whatever like my thought process would

 

be

 

like all right i'm making gnocchi like

 

uh i'm

 

mixing the dough i'm i am making sure

 

that it's

 

nice and airy if i press my finger into

 

it will it come back like

 

now i'm boiling it you know so i've

 

definitely like i've said that and a lot

 

of people might think it's [ __ ] but

 

it's not you know because i love cooking

 

did you imagine like lots of pots and

 

pans in front of you

 

no no not really like yeah although i

 

have had

 

many people over the years be very

 

annoyed at

 

my constant tapping on things which

 

usually

 

gets a little more extreme during phases

 

where i haven't been playing drums in a

 

band so

 

before we started this i heard you

 

tapping i was actually

 

very impressed with how on time it was

 

as a record producer

 

i mean i probably do it when like i'm

 

not sure what to do too so

 

[Laughter]

 

cool uh so i feel like your at least the

 

history of your

 

cooking career is very interesting can

 

you just walk us through it a little bit

 

sure i'd always really really been been

 

into food cooking

 

or just like into like watching

 

food television that kind of thing like

 

there was a show

 

called uh great chefs that was like i

 

think i want to say it was like late 80s

 

early 90s

 

stretching to the late 90s where i was

 

this like it was on pbs i believe

 

and um it was just these like crazy

 

french chefs with like

 

tall hats making these ridiculous like

 

uh

 

kind of like foie gras emulsion this and

 

that

 

and uh kind of talking talking through

 

it

 

for this tv show there would the thing

 

that i always really kind of loved about

 

it but they left the uh

 

kind of like ambient background noise of

 

the kitchen like the kind of clanking

 

and the sound of the hoods

 

and stuff like that and it kind of like

 

made it more fun i guess um

 

because it wasn't it was kind of like

 

you know this was the kind of thing

 

where

 

a producer went in and started filming

 

these uh

 

chefs who weren't used to being on

 

camera so like they're just

 

kind of doing what they're normally

 

doing and then all the like

 

clanking and sounds in the background

 

they left in there and then there was

 

also this amazing

 

um narrator for the show who had kind of

 

like a new orleans accent

 

and uh there's this woman i don't

 

remember her name but it always it kind

 

of added to it and there was kind of

 

like this weird sort of jazzy classical

 

music playing in the background but i

 

always totally totally loved it and then

 

basically spent most of the 90s just

 

jerking around

 

being in kind of stupid bands and then

 

in 1999

 

uh the band i was in at the time skull

 

control we had broken up i was living in

 

washington dc

 

and i found an ad in the

 

dc city paper and it said uh pastry

 

assistant wanted and

 

there was just a fax number and that was

 

it and for some reason i decided

 

it was a good idea for me to try to get

 

this job even though

 

i had never really cooked any desserts

 

ever and i

 

didn't even really care about desserts

 

either like maybe like making cookies

 

with my grandmother or something like

 

that

 

but anyway it was almost like a prank so

 

i remember very specifically because i

 

had just

 

also um finally graduated from college

 

with an english degree

 

so went home wrote this you know

 

very flowery letter and uh printed it

 

out

 

and then walked up to mount pleasant

 

street in washington dc where i lived at

 

the time

 

to the uh i don't know what it was like

 

a notary

 

fax place and i took the piece of paper

 

gave it to the guy and he faxed it to

 

the number it didn't say what the

 

restaurant was it didn't say anything at

 

all just said pastry assistant wanted

 

basically they called me back

 

which i thought was strange because i

 

had no experience

 

at all and it turned out to be basically

 

the best

 

italian restaurant in washington dc at

 

the time a place i'd never been to

 

because i

 

wasn't going to fancy restaurants you

 

know i was a broke pumpkin

 

best italian restaurant in washington to

 

see as somebody who spent time in new

 

york i imagine it's pretty bad i spent a

 

lot of time at both

 

honestly i'm gonna say that when i

 

started working at this place it was

 

called galileo in 1999 it was

 

a phenomenal restaurant i have no idea

 

how it compared to new york restaurants

 

at the time in terms of like

 

technique or ingredients or anything

 

like that but

 

when i started working there i was kind

 

of like clobbered over the head with

 

what was going

 

on there and like i was completely out

 

of place i didn't belong there

 

i was vegetarian at the time so had i

 

gotten a job on the line

 

cooking you know duck and lobster and

 

veal stock and stuff like that i

 

probably would have lasted like a month

 

or maybe

 

even less a day but because it was a

 

pastry job i

 

got this lower level pastry job and

 

because i was vegetarian it didn't

 

involve

 

dealing with any meat i kind of like

 

fell into it that way so question

 

i had this preconceived notion i mean as

 

someone who loves to cook myself but

 

i'm i'm [ __ ] at any kind of of baking

 

because i'm not precise enough i am the

 

kind of person that just like

 

throws [ __ ] into a pan or whatever and

 

kind of figures it out based on what i

 

know the flavors are in my head and i

 

assumed that there was going to be some

 

link between

 

your you know the precision needed to

 

drum and the precision

 

and you know dedication and and accuracy

 

needed to create

 

desserts in that way but then i read

 

something that you said that you kind of

 

just

 

look at recipes as a starting point and

 

just kind of you know we'll go rogue

 

with that stuff has

 

is that is that still your approach you

 

know when you're making pastries and

 

things like that i know it's not your

 

main thing right now but

 

you know did you always kind of wing it

 

or or were you

 

a super precise person at one point and

 

then went further after that

 

no no i've never ever been a precise

 

person for anything not for

 

playing drums and not for cooking ever i

 

pretty much do everything by feel

 

it actually drives a certain kind of

 

a certain kind of person that comes to

 

work at superiority burger that expects

 

a certain amount of precision

 

um that's not there it drives them

 

completely crazy and then they

 

don't last very long and which is fine

 

because you know it's totally fine you

 

know

 

but yeah like even something like uh

 

like making ice cream

 

is one of my total passions i love

 

everything about it

 

i love starting from zero where you're

 

taking

 

a bunch of stuff and then making

 

something putting it in a machine and

 

the thing that comes out

 

is way greater than the sum of the parts

 

that went in

 

and it's all about texture it's about

 

flavor it's about

 

balance and it really requires a certain

 

amount of precision to do it but

 

even to this day to this day meaning

 

like today

 

when i was making ice cream today i just

 

still kind of wing it and

 

that was kind of the same when i was

 

playing drums too like

 

especially i would always try to do

 

things that i couldn't do and then a lot

 

of times those would get captured on

 

recordings and especially

 

especially in a live situation or

 

whatever you know um where

 

it's almost like i just want the whole

 

thing to be done with so i can be done

 

with it and be like all right cool

 

that's done

 

so it's it's weird because like if it's

 

a song you're playing live

 

it's done nobody cares you know at least

 

most bands i've ever been in the songs

 

don't nobody cares

 

um but like with cooking like especially

 

something like ice cream like it's done

 

now

 

now is the time that it really needs to

 

get judged

 

did you do a good job did you make it

 

work um and you know sometimes it

 

doesn't work

 

and then we make it again so when you're

 

cooking for friends and things like that

 

do they know like oh listen brooks is

 

cooking there's like a 40

 

chance this could be garbage and there's

 

a you know 60 chance it's the best thing

 

you've ever had

 

i absolutely never cook for friends

 

unless you consider

 

unless you consider our regulars the

 

friends um i have

 

lived in new york since 2006 in

 

like four different apartments and i

 

have only cooked it home

 

maybe six times like totally because

 

i've always been working

 

and so there's not a lot of like hey

 

come over it's am i having a dinner

 

party kind of thing or like even like

 

i'm gonna cook for my girlfriend you

 

know like

 

pretty much like i'm cooking at work and

 

then when i come home

 

i mean if if this was video that you

 

could take a look in my refrigerator

 

there's nothing in there so

 

so you just to get in here so you never

 

had any

 

formal training other than on the job no

 

no no

 

it's true and then i mean because

 

cooking is one of those things it's not

 

like it's not like

 

being a doctor or a lawyer where you

 

actually have to be schooled at certain

 

things to do it like cooking you can

 

kind of just figure out as you go along

 

and it really depends on your commitment

 

to the cause

 

like if you are completely committed and

 

you're working at a place where you know

 

you can learn a bunch of awesome [ __ ]

 

then it doesn't matter you can start

 

from zero

 

and learn a bunch of amazing techniques

 

and then take those to your next

 

restaurant in your next restaurant or

 

perhaps

 

if you ever get to open up your own

 

thing that's uh

 

yeah but i never went to culinary school

 

i actually don't recommend

 

anyone going to culinary school i think

 

it's a waste of money um at the same

 

time

 

if you're if your goal is to like learn

 

as much as possible on the job at

 

good restaurants or not even necessarily

 

good at restaurants where you know you

 

can learn

 

things that you want to learn um you're

 

probably going to work for no money so

 

like you're not your lack of getting

 

money

 

as opposed to you're paying a bunch of

 

money for school for cooking is kind of

 

to me it's kind of the same it all

 

really it really depends on your

 

motivation as a person you know if you

 

it's something you really want to do

 

then you can make it work you're

 

probably not going to starve

 

right well no i mean that's the thing

 

you work in a restaurant you're never

 

going to starve

 

you're better off than a media intern

 

i found this review and i wanted to

 

bring this up because it seems

 

appropriate for what you're saying here

 

and it's it was in food 52 and it was

 

from bill buford it was a review of

 

fancy desserts

 

and i'll just read it a section here is

 

it a cookbook yes

 

mainly sometimes the photography sucks

 

deliberately the color is washed out the

 

photography is amazing it does not suck

 

it's the opposite of food porn it's what

 

you go to if you just wasted an

 

afternoon watching the food network but

 

is it a cookbook

 

there's no chapter of pastry kitchen

 

basics which is curious in a dessert

 

book

 

except that here there is no basic

 

anything the recipes come at you every

 

which way

 

they are sometimes complete some of them

 

probably work they are

 

all nothing less than very idiosyncratic

 

and yet they are also somehow not arty

 

maybe it's not a cookbook now that was a

 

positive review i know that was i i

 

like that i mean especially except for

 

the photography part because i think the

 

photography in that book is amazing

 

well i think you know what what it

 

reminded me of is if you see early

 

reviews of like the ramones

 

when like rock critics don't know what

 

to make of it and they're kind of like

 

what is this it's great but i don't get

 

it it doesn't

 

compute and knowing someone like buford

 

who like in the beginning of the article

 

he's talking about oh i was away in

 

europe and i came back and blah blah and

 

all that stuff

 

and he's coming at it obviously from a

 

very different place he's coming at it

 

from

 

the high end if not white tablecloth at

 

least

 

very entrenched culinary world and you

 

put out a cookbook

 

that is almost like a zine you know so

 

so how much of that

 

was a middle finger to you know to to

 

that

 

culinary world or how much of it was

 

just an expression of identity it's

 

funny like uh when

 

that book came out because it's kind of

 

like it's like sort of memoir

 

sort of cookbook the photography and

 

design

 

was specifically i specifically chose

 

jason fulford and tamara shopsin

 

to do that because they had done the

 

the shop sentence cookbook which i loved

 

um and i was like hey i want to do this

 

so it was like kind of like a i just i

 

it felt like the

 

i love their aesthetic you know in terms

 

of it being

 

of course like it meant it was 100 meant

 

to be like an

 

anti cookbook for sure and

 

i still to this day can't believe that

 

the publisher even put it out because

 

it's pretty stupid and it doesn't really

 

make any sense

 

and people will still come into the

 

superiority burger now and be like oh my

 

god i love fancy desserts and i'm like

 

that's amazing uh it was it was kind of

 

a joke the whole thing was kind of a

 

joke except it wasn't a joke at all and

 

you know that's that's definitely that

 

that idea is something that i

 

100 learned from like being born against

 

you know this thing is a complete joke

 

but it's also

 

deadly serious that's fascinating

 

because i did see you seem to have a

 

complicated relationship with cookbooks

 

i mean there

 

there was that bone app article that you

 

wrote about cookbooks and all that and

 

looking at that as and i've always felt

 

similarly

 

that a lot of cookbooks are marketing

 

ploys they're they're these

 

books that are written that no one's

 

gonna actually you put it on your shelf

 

in your kitchen and it makes you look

 

like you know how to cook

 

no one's opening that up for inspiration

 

and you know i wonder

 

your relationship when you when you did

 

you know fancy desserts or even more so

 

when you did the superiority cook uh

 

burger cookbook were you focused on

 

making something

 

that people would actually use facing

 

desserts i didn't really care at all if

 

anyone ever used

 

it like i said even to this day when

 

people are like oh i did the carrot cake

 

recipe i'm like oh my god it worked

 

as opposed to the superiority burger

 

cookbook which was meant to be

 

a documentation of the things we had

 

done up until that point

 

um when superiority burger opened the

 

same publisher that put out fancy

 

desserts kind of that

 

approached me and was like hey do you

 

want to do a cookbook and like we had

 

just opened it was

 

way too soon to even consider it but i

 

was kind of all wrapped up in like the

 

hullabaloo or whatever so i agreed to it

 

it was definitely way too soon

 

for that to come out um or to that for

 

us to even try to start that

 

at that point um i'm proud of what came

 

out of it because

 

it is definitely like a documentation of

 

a particular

 

2015 to 2016

 

ish air time frame when the restaurant

 

had first started

 

and we were kind of going crazy in this

 

tiny little space

 

um since that book has come out i think

 

i think

 

we probably figured out we have three to

 

400 new recipes

 

that could be like a series of other

 

cookbooks but i also decided i will

 

never ever do

 

a normal cookbook ever again so i mean

 

you've worked with some

 

pretty successful chefs that they weigh

 

in on like these decisions that they

 

give you advice

 

around like you should do this to a

 

cookbook you shouldn't honestly like

 

nobody really knew what i was doing at

 

the time

 

so it kind of when people that i knew

 

professionally were like oh you're doing

 

a cookbook i they kind of had an

 

idea in their head of what it was going

 

to be and then when fancy desserts

 

actually came out

 

a lot of them were just like oh uh cool

 

like

 

like completely like like oh well this

 

is useless

 

but i like it you know i like that but

 

it's the same publisher and the second

 

one they were like you can't

 

compare rain and blood to panacada in

 

this one is that right

 

well two-fold um they were like why

 

don't you do a normal cookbook and i was

 

like i'm

 

i totally want to do a normal cookbook

 

you know

 

um and then also for the for the

 

superiority burger cookbook it was

 

supposed to just be more like like i

 

said straight documentation like you

 

know not to get

 

like cheesy here but like i think of

 

something like flex your head and like

 

that is like a

 

[ __ ] total documentation of this very

 

particular scene that was happening

 

in washington dc at a very particular

 

time so as we were like

 

compiling the recipes and writing the

 

the intros and all that stuff i was like

 

oh this is cool

 

you know this is this is exactly and it

 

was wasn't meant

 

it wasn't supposed to be particularly

 

like a middle finger or ridiculous or in

 

any way like it was supposed to just be

 

like this is

 

what we're doing but i mean uh cookbooks

 

like the lps of the

 

food world like when you go see the live

 

act

 

is it really the same thing of course

 

not no no

 

well i think most people don't realize

 

that okay all right maybe

 

the superiority burger book is a little

 

bit of a middle finger too anyway

 

i mean specifically like the burger

 

recipe it's all in one page

 

it looks very simple but then people

 

would come up to me and go oh

 

i tried to make the burger recipe it

 

took eight hours and i'm like i'm like

 

that's it

 

you know but if the recipe was

 

specifically written

 

with like verbs and adjectives and nouns

 

to make it seem

 

like it might be easy even though if you

 

really read those words

 

it's definitely not and then that's the

 

first recipe in the book

 

and then there's 90 other recipes that

 

have nothing to do with

 

veggie burgers which i also love because

 

you know it's looks like a like a book

 

of

 

different veggie burger recipes and

 

there's only one and then that's it

 

so with that so it's eight hours to make

 

this burger

 

you're not surprised you are talking

 

about how

 

your cooking is a little bit of an

 

approximation so many of these chefs

 

like especially like that

 

elbowly noma thing of that they're like

 

developing these science experiments of

 

food

 

that's not i when i taste your burger i

 

hear

 

taste craftsmanship but it's really

 

exactness

 

and replication of that is not a concern

 

for you no of course it is of course it

 

is like you know like we

 

we spend a lot of time like making sure

 

that

 

when we make something like the burger

 

that is very uniform

 

the initial like research and and

 

developing of the recipe

 

is a lot more like kind of scavenge um

 

but once it becomes a thing that we have

 

all the time

 

which is kind of a very small amount of

 

items on our menu like

 

most of the stuff it's like only five or

 

six things that are always there like

 

the rest of the stuff just kind of comes

 

and goes depending on what we find in

 

the market

 

or what we feel like making that kind of

 

thing so

 

but yeah the main kind of like meat of

 

the

 

menu is you know pretty precise and i

 

have an amazing

 

cook named edith and she has been with

 

the restaurant for

 

five years you know almost since the

 

beginning and you know we trained her to

 

make the burger in a certain way

 

and she is actually incredibly precise

 

so

 

it never actually changes and in fact

 

since the shutdown

 

i decided to kind of like [ __ ] with the

 

burger recipe a little bit which

 

definitely kind of annoyed her

 

because i i refused to actually like

 

write down what we were doing and it was

 

probably about a month and a half

 

of me just like dumping things in in

 

containers and then eventually she sort

 

of looked at me and was like

 

all right and then we actually got out

 

of scale and weighed everything out and

 

like

 

you know for the past two months she's

 

been making the

 

the same thing and it's always the same

 

and it's probably better than when i

 

made it

 

so so we were going from dc what

 

happened

 

after you got that first job with vfx

 

machine how did that work out um worked

 

there for about a year

 

and it was like i said it was an amazing

 

restaurant

 

learned all sorts of crazy techniques um

 

for desserts because i was a pastry

 

assistant

 

making ice cream making um you know how

 

to shoe all these different

 

things that i never i didn't even know

 

like uh like we made

 

you know cremon glaze and i didn't even

 

i'd never even seen that word before so

 

i just i thought like if i looked at it

 

it was like creme

 

on glaze you know like i didn't i didn't

 

know any french or anything

 

so i learned all these things that i

 

didn't even know i wanted to learn about

 

but i did and it was kind of a thing

 

where it kind of changed me as a person

 

because i got to like

 

learn this craft that i wasn't even

 

planning on learning

 

specifically this dessert because before

 

you know it was like

 

i'm making vegetarian food for my

 

friends nature's burger casserole

 

so i was like kind of thrust into this

 

world where i was this weirdo because

 

at the time i was 27 which was pretty

 

old to be working

 

as like a person just starting in a

 

restaurant i mean

 

granted at the time things have kind of

 

flipped now where like

 

sous chefs and chefs that work in

 

restaurants are much younger but

 

when i started working in the late 90s

 

the the people in charge were actually

 

kind of old like they were in their 40s

 

and they were

 

mean and they were like like bitter and

 

and totally [ __ ] nuts um but in terms

 

of in the like pastry world there was

 

the pastry chef

 

and all of her cooks were people that

 

were like 20 and i was 27 which doesn't

 

seem that like that

 

much of a difference but at the time it

 

kind of was and i was really quiet and i

 

was really shy and i just

 

kind of like learned from the pastry

 

chef how to do these things

 

and like it really stuck with me in this

 

way where i like i was sort of confused

 

because i was this guy who was just

 

had been in a bunch of bands for most of

 

the 90s and all of a sudden

 

now i'm making super high-end fancy

 

fancy desserts

 

for in like unfathomably rich people

 

you know which everything about it felt

 

wrong except at the same time i was

 

really having a good time i mean you

 

were used to mean and crazy though

 

oh for sure yeah you had that advantage

 

you know

 

like someone who's 20 might not have had

 

those those calluses on there

 

yeah for sure right so where'd you go

 

after that well i had met

 

a friend of mine who i'm still friends

 

with today his name is scott and he

 

these things happen in restaurants where

 

people will come work for like a week or

 

a month because they need a job and

 

they're going to do it

 

something else and like their chef

 

talked to your chef and that kind of

 

thing

 

so scott just showed up one day and

 

worked for like a month and

 

i kind of hit it off with scott and you

 

know like my girlfriend at the time had

 

a dog named gigi

 

and scott was like oh gg allen

 

and i'm like you know at the time like

 

something like talking about

 

punk rock or anything subculture at all

 

in a restaurant seemed insane especially

 

gigi

 

exactly yeah and so i was like what

 

technically he wasn't named after gigi

 

allen but anyway but that kind of like

 

started our friendship

 

and he was like oh you should um i'm

 

leaving here in a couple weeks i'm

 

going to open up a uh in a true skin

 

restaurant around the corner and i'm

 

like in a true skin restaurant you mean

 

like

 

like ancient like italian food like what

 

the [ __ ] you even is that

 

like why would someone do that and he's

 

like yeah it's pretty cool so i would

 

take

 

i would spend my days off going to hang

 

out with scott after he had left

 

and he and we would you know hang out

 

and we would

 

talk about the dicks and 999 and stuff

 

like that

 

and then he looked at me one day and

 

he's like hey there's a ritz carlton

 

opening up right around the corner from

 

the restaurant where you work i bet you

 

could get a job there because you'll

 

make more money

 

and as someone who had never really

 

cared about money

 

all of a sudden i was like huh well

 

maybe i should write them a letter too

 

the same way i wrote a letter to get

 

this job at this restaurant

 

anyway so he kind of pushed me towards

 

that and i did it

 

and i got the job at the at the hotel um

 

having no idea what i was about to get

 

myself involved with

 

um and then when i finally gave my

 

notice at the restaurant and told

 

uh lori the pastry chef and then also

 

the head chef at the restaurant i was

 

like yeah i'm leaving to go work at the

 

hotel they were like

 

[ __ ] you hotels [ __ ] suck why would

 

you do that like

 

that's [ __ ] it's not even a job it's

 

[ __ ] it's

 

[ __ ] like like you work at a

 

restaurant and like it's a [ __ ]

 

career and you're gonna work at a hotel

 

you [ __ ] like

 

they were so upset that i was like i

 

wonder if there's any like basis in this

 

and they were totally right because

 

working in a hotel totally sucks

 

i mean i think i made one dollar more an

 

hour so it wasn't really that much

 

different but yeah so

 

worked at the restaurant worked at the

 

hotel worked at another restaurant

 

kind of like worked my way around for a

 

while and then ended up in los

 

angeles in like the early 2000s so did

 

you go there for a job or

 

for other reasons what was the what was

 

the plan did you have a plan

 

i've almost never had a plan for

 

anything but in this case i had a very

 

specific plan because

 

i moved to los angeles to be in a band

 

that uh

 

some people that i used to be in a band

 

with were starting up a band and they're

 

like oh you should move to la and be in

 

a band

 

and i was like i kind of i'm living in

 

dc i kind of have a good job like why

 

would i do that and then

 

went out to los angeles for like kind of

 

like a three four day vacation and we

 

kind of practiced and i was like all

 

right i guess i'm moving to l.a

 

but which is weird because hold on hold

 

on these are the same people you quit

 

college for is that correct yeah yeah

 

so like moo basically moved to l.a but

 

because i had kind of like been like

 

completely enclosed in this

 

restaurant world for probably two years

 

at this point and

 

knew all of a sudden knew all these

 

things about other restaurants and other

 

cities and

 

other chefs and other techniques i made

 

a plan that

 

was kind of like i talked to myself and

 

i was like okay i'm absolutely 100

 

only moving to la to be in this stupid

 

band however i'm also going to get a job

 

at this restaurant where i've heard very

 

good things about this place

 

and um i eventually did end up working

 

at the restaurant it was called

 

campanile

 

um you know one of the great restaurants

 

of los angeles at that time

 

um and it was funny too because at the

 

time

 

i was living in washington dc and if you

 

were like person working in a restaurant

 

and you wanted to go

 

to further your career to learn more and

 

develop you would go to

 

100 there was like no other option and

 

instead i told my bosses i was like hey

 

i'm moving to l.a

 

of course i never said i was moving to

 

la to be in a band because i

 

didn't even want to start that

 

conversation so i said i'm moving to la

 

to go work in a restaurant

 

and they were just like you're crazy why

 

would you go to l.a it's like a

 

backwater like go to new york or or stay

 

here you know so

 

um the restaurant where i ended up

 

working in la um learned

 

a million different things techniques

 

in a way kind of started my way of um

 

kind of like shooting from the hip and

 

like just kind of cooking things even

 

though they were desserts

 

because the the restaurant while it was

 

very precise

 

it also allowed for a little leeway in

 

the way of

 

the way that we could which really spoke

 

to me and it was you know like a cool

 

place to work like where we would do

 

things

 

for instance we made like a black

 

currant ice cream

 

and the only instructions i remember on

 

making the blackberry ice cream

 

cream or like make it look like barney

 

like

 

[Laughter]

 

there was there were no measurements

 

there was none of this it was just like

 

two bowls

 

pour this together pour this together

 

once it looks like barney

 

you're good and i'm like how the [ __ ]

 

could this possibly work and

 

it worked because the people that were

 

making it really understood what they

 

were doing

 

and i was like [ __ ] [ __ ] like all

 

right i'm gonna

 

this is what i need to know this is i

 

need to hang out here and figure this

 

out

 

so so is that typical though did you

 

just look out and

 

land at the right place there to find a

 

technique that fit with you

 

kind of 100 yeah

 

um and and again i was you know i was in

 

a band at the time

 

and also working at this restaurant

 

never told anyone i was working at the

 

restaurant like you know there'd be like

 

you know because now all of a sudden i'm

 

in los angeles and like everyone's in a

 

band um

 

everyone is an actor like everyone's

 

trying to make it and i moved to la to

 

be in this really stupid band that

 

nobody cared about and nobody in the

 

band even wanted to like make it or

 

anything like that it was just like we

 

did it

 

because it was something we all felt we

 

needed to do you know

 

um so never ever ever mentioned i was in

 

a band if i needed to go

 

do a recording or like take a weekend to

 

go on tour i would always

 

say something like i have some family

 

stuff to do i'll be is it okay if i take

 

these days off

 

and that's like even taking three days

 

off in a row in like the early 2000s at

 

a restaurant was like this

 

insane thing that no one understood

 

they're like what do you mean you're

 

taking three days in a row off that's

 

that's [ __ ] crazy and i was like i'm

 

sorry it's this family thing i have to

 

do

 

and then i was like i was like listen i

 

will work the next

 

25 days straight to make up for and they

 

would make me work the next 25 days

 

straight and it was fine

 

so when did you find the fax number for

 

the restaurant you wanted to work at

 

i mean like i said it was just like i

 

ended up after la

 

band broke up moved back to dc ended up

 

moving to new york

 

it was just a series of like kind of

 

like bouncing around at different places

 

okay at what point did you land

 

somewhere where you're like this is

 

great

 

this actually makes like like when you

 

quit college to join born against was

 

there a chef moment

 

that felt that way

 

for better or worse oh my god but when i

 

when i quit college she joined born

 

against the only

 

way i could explain it to my mom was the

 

the

 

t-shirt it was kind of like a tom of

 

finland thing of like two cops

 

with like dripping dicks like i was like

 

yes

 

i believe i believe uh bhagat society

 

opened at the

 

show where those were debuted and i

 

would say

 

a hundred fourteen-year-old's parents

 

threw that out immediately

 

i very specifically remember hiding it

 

from her for a while

 

and then and then of course you know at

 

one point i just threw it in the laundry

 

and she but my mom was pretty cool so

 

she never was like what is this

 

um she just she would wash it and fold

 

it and put it with the rest of the

 

laundry stuff

 

um but that was the thing like i was

 

like i'm quitting school

 

to join this band and they all live in

 

jersey city and i'm gonna drive up

 

once a week in practice and then i had

 

the shirt and i was like this is the

 

band and she was just like

 

okay all right all right great you know

 

but in terms of like a restaurant

 

situation like

 

it was never like i never actually got

 

to like be in

 

when i got to join born against they

 

were like 100 my favorite band of all

 

time at the time so it was

 

incredibly special for me i was also 20

 

years old when i

 

moved finally did move to new york i

 

ended up working at this restaurant del

 

posto kind of like

 

i didn't really belong working there

 

because it was a very big restaurant

 

with a very big staff

 

and i previously had only you know

 

worked in

 

kind of smaller restaurants and i was

 

never really in charge of that many

 

people maybe one or two but not 10.

 

um but i impressed the chef

 

there with the the food that i made and

 

they hired me so and

 

i ended up staying there for like seven

 

years um so you were immediately in

 

charge of a bunch of people

 

yeah yeah yeah um it was uh i mean i had

 

i had had other like kind of like

 

managerial pastry chef jobs

 

but not in new york city and we're

 

talking like

 

a small restaurant with a couple of

 

people whereas like

 

somehow like talked my way into this job

 

at this enormous restaurant and all of a

 

sudden had a staff of like 10

 

which was you know that was definitely a

 

an insane learning curve about how to

 

deal with other people for sure

 

looking back on your on your del posto

 

times do you see that as

 

a natural progression to get to as

 

antithetical as it seems getting to

 

superiority burger or do you see it as

 

like your brian baker in junkyard moment

 

where you're like that was the left turn

 

oh well done well done oh nice nice

 

i haven't actually listened to junkyard

 

in a long time

 

i wonder if i still have i'll cop to

 

that i really enjoyed that when i was

 

12.

 

i think it was this thing where the same

 

way that each job

 

that i kind of procured along the path

 

of

 

my culinary career as stupid and

 

pretentious as that sounds like

 

that just seemed like another challenge

 

like well

 

all right i tricked them into giving me

 

this job i guess i should make it work

 

you know

 

and stayed there for a while but the

 

thing that

 

really started and it was it's weird

 

because this started at the beginning

 

and then also

 

like near the end the thing that really

 

always bummed me out about working in

 

these super fancy restaurants

 

was that incredibly exciting

 

to make to get these incredible

 

ingredients from the farmer's market

 

or these incredible things that are

 

imported from all over and this is i

 

mean i'm talking about this is still

 

only dessert at this point um

 

ethically sourced chocolate and almonds

 

from sicily and all this crazy [ __ ] and

 

then

 

spend all this time you know you're

 

working 50

 

to 70 hours a week you never get to see

 

your friends you never get to like

 

hang out or go to shows or but you're

 

you're like committed to this craft

 

and then the thing that initially when i

 

first started working

 

in the late 90s was like the end result

 

of this is just a bunch of rich people

 

get to eat this

 

and that's it and that sucks and then i

 

kind of like

 

after a few years like that just seemed

 

like well that's just normal that's just

 

that's just what this life is like and

 

then kind of near the end of working in

 

this big fancy restaurant in new york

 

city

 

it kind of like started to like nag on

 

me again like can't believe i'm spending

 

all this time

 

and like training all these people and

 

making these things

 

and only like insanely rich people get

 

to eat it that sucks

 

did you feel that way playing john

 

hiltz's house though

 

[Laughter]

 

oh my god sorry you don't have to answer

 

that

 

i'm just glad we got a john hilts doug

 

here actually uh

 

universal order of armageddon and a veil

 

there was a late season snowstorm

 

in 1993 like kind of like mid-march or

 

something and we

 

were both of our bands were playing at

 

hilton's house and then there was this

 

huge snowstorm and we got stranded there

 

for like i think like four days

 

um and it was just all of us and you

 

know there's no

 

internet there's nothing it's just

 

basically just hilts making us tempeh

 

for like four days

 

so maybe that maybe that was maybe

 

watching him make tempeh was like kind

 

of part of uh

 

my uh early culinary program i just say

 

that that should be your origin story

 

right there

 

exactly yeah it's

 

so touching upon that i mean you know i

 

feel like especially

 

when food culture started becoming more

 

popular to the mainstream

 

and especially you know going

 

hand-in-hand with cocktail culture i was

 

working in marketing when when all that

 

stuff started getting

 

more popular and i noticed that there

 

was a lot of

 

mixologists and chefs that were kind of

 

playing off of this counter culture cred

 

you know they'd have sleeves or they you

 

know they'd look

 

they'd look the part but they weren't

 

actually you know you couldn't talk to

 

them about music the way we're talking

 

about music or at least

 

our niche of that music right is there

 

any conflict

 

when every interview you do is like oh

 

he's punk rock he was in bands you

 

you've heard of and blah blah

 

like is that something that gets tiring

 

to you after a while is it just like you

 

know or is it just such an ingrained

 

part of who you are

 

do you ever feel like well i don't want

 

to be lumped with those posers

 

that's funny well no it's funny you say

 

that because even like agreeing to do

 

this podcast i was like oh god

 

like i don't want to talk about this

 

[ __ ] again and then i listened to some

 

of

 

the previous podcasts and i was like i

 

think they're going to kind of get it

 

like because like

 

other things i've done like this

 

interviews or whatnot it's usually like

 

oh you are in a punk band and then it's

 

kind of like silence

 

and but no one's like no one's like okay

 

which red sea song off

 

flex your head is your favorite okay

 

tell me

 

right now you know um so like

 

maybe like there were there were certain

 

points like it like

 

from the time that i discovered maximum

 

rock and roll

 

and started ordering records online like

 

when i was still living at my mom's

 

house

 

up until the point that i started

 

working in restaurants and all that kind

 

of thing like even like going back and

 

forth at times throughout the years like

 

it's just kind of like it's just who

 

what i've been and what i've done or

 

whatever like and

 

i don't particularly want to like play

 

it up or anything

 

and if it kind of comes out or like kind

 

of vomits out at times like in little

 

spurts like

 

i i guess i'm fine with that but because

 

it's kind of like part of

 

who i am like like joining born against

 

and meeting sam and adam when i was 20

 

years old like

 

truly developed like how i look at the

 

world so

 

at times yes it gets a little tiring to

 

try to kind of be like yeah i'm the punk

 

rock pastry show

 

you know so so right now

 

looking at the the media that you do do

 

it kind of splits between like the music

 

hipsters of like the pitchforks and

 

vices of the world and like the foodie

 

hipsters of the world when it comes to

 

like grub street and eater and all that

 

what's more painful

 

[Laughter]

 

i mean it's all pretty painful like it's

 

funny too like when fancy desserts came

 

out

 

i didn't it was weird because like i was

 

writing this book that was all about me

 

like all about me and stuff i had done

 

food i had cooked and like bands i had

 

been in and bought a bottle you know

 

like

 

and then it came out and i i was like

 

wow i didn't really

 

want to tell anyone this and like all of

 

a sudden it's in a book that

 

anyone can read you know so it's just

 

kind of like i mean at this point like i

 

feel very kind of comfortable in my own

 

skin at

 

superiority burger and the restaurant

 

it's very small

 

um it's very strange and it's

 

it's that way because of what came

 

before

 

so i'm totally fine with that like you

 

know that we've had offers

 

to expand it into a chain and do this

 

and that

 

and i've actually even you know had

 

conversations with very very wealthy

 

people

 

about like doing stuff like this and

 

then i always chicken out at the last

 

moment or like do something stupid so

 

they never call me back um so it's not

 

gonna be like jafar where they try and

 

open like one in

 

las vegas well i mean technically we

 

have one in tokyo now but that's

 

that's a little that's a different

 

situation all right we're gonna get to

 

that in a minute

 

so wait speaking of mixology uh i see

 

you have a ripple gelato have you ever

 

tried to make sham pipple gelato

 

i i actually have no idea what that is

 

oh

 

you got to watch this there's two

 

episodes of sanford and son

 

i believe the first there's way more

 

episodes than two episodes separate

 

no with champ highlighted so i believe

 

the first one

 

uh fred makes it uh with

 

ginger ale and ripple but then they they

 

get to fly first class he makes it with

 

champagne and ripple

 

okay well can i just say you know

 

patrick from dealership

 

has perfected the recipe oh yeah yeah

 

that's his recipe

 

and he's a he's a piece of bartender his

 

was i believe strawberry champale

 

blue hawaii boone's farm uh a can of

 

beer

 

and crushed up adderall i i watched him

 

mix it in a very large tupperware and a

 

bunch of kids drank it and then the

 

second batch he ran out of adderall

 

and replaced it with scope oh jesus

 

try that one in tokyo

 

i mean if i may interject like i don't

 

know how adderall

 

once it's like ground up affects the

 

texture

 

or um crystallization of a gelato or

 

sorbetto

 

but alcohol definitely keeps it from

 

freezing

 

so i would have to reduce the ripple and

 

kind of like remove some of the alcohol

 

and then

 

is it really ripple ice cream at that

 

point because we have really extracted

 

the flavor has evaporated so um but at

 

any rate

 

i think i read this as a dave arnold

 

article once

 

i think i think it would look like

 

barney at some point

 

well as long as it looks like bars

 

so talking about going back to media and

 

all of that how much do you

 

credit slash blame sam for

 

for building the myth of brooks when it

 

comes to that dessert psycho article

 

i love sam i love i like sam's a genius

 

i love his writing i was really really

 

excited

 

at the time that he was working for vice

 

and wanted to like write this thing

 

and he actually came out and like hung

 

out with us in the kitchen um

 

and sam sam is the best sam doesn't

 

really

 

cook or really know anything about food

 

so i kind of like that too

 

and it was really kind of fun to like

 

have him be in this

 

situation that was completely foreign to

 

him and like see what he would do with

 

it

 

it happened that was that was probably

 

like 11 years ago at this point you know

 

um i don't i don't think one way

 

negatively or positively about it at

 

this point like it's just kind of

 

something that happened

 

maybe there's things in it that i'm kind

 

of embarrassed by or maybe they're

 

things

 

that i think are totally cool but like i

 

said at this point like my

 

i feel like my place and my position

 

and this kind of like culinary landscape

 

is just being this

 

[ __ ] crazy person that's at this tiny

 

little six seat restaurant

 

every single second of every day well

 

talking about your

 

dedication and reading some of the

 

things that you've written and what

 

you've spoken about you've referenced

 

ian mckay a lot you've also referenced

 

albini a lot

 

i feel like that's like a beatles or

 

stones you've got to be one to the other

 

are you more makai or albini

 

like me personally or like like how you

 

learn things is it is it the

 

is it the benevolent lord or is it the

 

iron fest

 

wait which is which well i'd say albinis

 

probably the more i mean i feel like

 

ian's more inherently likable

 

whereas albini whether it's a bad rap or

 

not like definitely

 

gets that taskmaster uh in in more of a

 

negative kind of uh

 

i'll bet he penalizes employees for

 

putting a microphone not at the place

 

where it's late

 

that's i it too

 

but you know i mean i'm joking with that

 

i actually don't really see it as like a

 

beetle stones kind of thing like you

 

know

 

they're uh albinis approach to

 

recording and like aesthetics i [ __ ]

 

love but also

 

makai's approach to recording and

 

aesthetics i also love you know so

 

um i'm not gonna i'm actually absolutely

 

not gonna take a side on this one i

 

i [ __ ] apologize because i kind of

 

like you know

 

i love i love big black as much as i

 

love skewball

 

i was just thinking about this uh john

 

hilts making you tempeh

 

so you you hung out with tony joy for a

 

while i was in bands

 

i heard this story that people stayed at

 

his house and there was like a full-on

 

compost heap in the kitchen is that true

 

that's definitely exaggerated

 

[Laughter]

 

tony had this incredible house like

 

circa

 

like 91 to maybe maybe 94 it was still

 

around

 

but it was um there he had shows there

 

that's where

 

uh uoa practiced a bunch of other bands

 

practiced there

 

um it was in like planted in the middle

 

of this

 

very very suburban annapolis maryland

 

neighborhood like almost like kind of

 

upscale neighborhood too

 

but it was this crazy house that was

 

kind of like falling off a cliff there

 

was

 

it was just full of stuff like full of

 

amps and guitar equipment and

 

all these crazy books and like you know

 

it always

 

there's a very specific smell that

 

always brings me back to that house and

 

that's like that

 

and it's not what you think it's a

 

burdock root and tamari

 

and brown rice like because that's what

 

everyone

 

would always be cooking in that house

 

and like you know it was this very very

 

specific kind of scent

 

um but like there was like a back

 

bedroom that was kind of like a patio

 

and it was

 

absolutely fully fully kind of tilting

 

off this

 

basically cliff and at the bottom of the

 

cliff was

 

like a public pool or like even maybe

 

even like a private i don't remember but

 

like you could kind of like

 

look out the window of this back bedroom

 

and like they were just like kids

 

swimming very pleasant

 

it was i mean it was a kind of to me at

 

the time it was a very magical

 

amazing place and there was like this

 

weird little parking lot on the side and

 

like there was a

 

i think a vw van just full of

 

aseptic soy milk containers that at that

 

time

 

tony was really into recycling and and

 

still is to this day like we would

 

go play up in uh western massachusetts

 

and we would take bags of

 

soy milk containers up to massachusetts

 

to this one bin

 

at maybe a health food store or a

 

natural restaurant i don't remember

 

where those could get recycled so like

 

you know it'd be like the drums and the

 

svt

 

and the marshall and then like two trash

 

bags of soy milk like this is this is

 

[ __ ] really important stuff

 

i just i know i just have some i had

 

this image that he would climb on top of

 

the compost heap

 

and then jump off like at the end of the

 

at the end of the dinner

 

and at one time you know because he used

 

to do that and we were so annoyed by it

 

so me and my friend went to go and we

 

were like we're making like we're going

 

to catch him and he got really upset

 

and he did like the lux interior we just

 

he climbed down like all disgruntled in

 

the whole time

 

now tony tony's the best tony's tony's a

 

[ __ ] crazy psychopath i love

 

but like you know there was like that we

 

had that he had shows in the basement

 

and this like

 

and like people would have to park at

 

like the near the jungle gym and then

 

like walk down like a stretch of

 

street past these kind of nice houses to

 

get to this place and then you'd go see

 

like you know

 

heroin or cupid park okay we're talking

 

about how you kind of like

 

blindly fell into all this work but at

 

one point you won

 

a james beard award could you explain

 

what that means and how these awards

 

work

 

is there like a seedy side to it you

 

know like

 

what's up with that yeah no i mean uh

 

holy cd for sure you know

 

um yeah like it's uh it's i don't even

 

know if it exists anymore it kind of

 

imploded this year so

 

but it's kind of like it was at the time

 

this i won the award in 2013. um

 

the james beard awards are this kind of

 

it's kind of like this

 

restaurant awards for like the best chef

 

of this

 

region the best pastry chef of the

 

entire country the best

 

you know like restaurant design um the

 

best baker

 

these these kind of things you know um

 

so yeah i actually did

 

like win the award which is still to

 

this day kind of funny because

 

i don't know why or how like sometimes

 

people will get nominated for these

 

awards for like

 

nine ten years and they'll have to go to

 

these ceremonies and wear a tux and then

 

like not get the award

 

and then kind of be like wrong and then

 

like

 

you know next year the same thing and

 

like somebody else wins or whatever like

 

i got nominated made it to the finals

 

and then won the saint all in the same

 

year and like none of it really made any

 

sense because i really

 

didn't know what the [ __ ] i was doing i

 

admit that to this day like

 

like i just haven't been found out that

 

i'm like faking this one so but yeah

 

it's like

 

it's pretty funny like it doesn't

 

necessarily make you like you don't get

 

anything

 

from it like they give you like a little

 

medal it doesn't actually

 

even really have your name on which i

 

guess means they could change at the

 

last minute or whatever

 

i don't even know where it is like i'm

 

sitting in my apartment right now

 

and i when i moved three years ago it's

 

in a box somewhere i don't know

 

did they invite you to cook at the house

 

too yeah yeah well i mean i've i've

 

cooked it

 

at the james beer house many times like

 

that's something i've done

 

even at the very first jobs act like

 

because there's a certain point like i

 

said it's kind of i don't even know if

 

the whole thing exists anymore because

 

it kind of imploded this summer but it's

 

kind of seen as this prestigious thing

 

if you get invited to like cook but

 

it's kind of not because you have to

 

spend all your own money and do all your

 

own transfer to pay for all your own

 

transportation and like it's kind of

 

shitty inside and like the

 

the kit the kitchen doesn't really work

 

i mean the people that work there

 

like at the house are absolutely

 

beautiful people but like the

 

organization is kind of like yeah

 

you know but um but yeah no it's like uh

 

like an award i won was for the best

 

pastry chef in the entire country

 

at the time which was absolutely totally

 

[ __ ] stupid because like i probably i

 

probably wasn't the best pastry chef in

 

like chelsea

 

is there like a tasting is there like a

 

judging contest like

 

or do people just pick out the names

 

randomly like they're doing a scantron

 

test it's sort of scantrony it's sort of

 

random i don't i still to this day don't

 

understand it

 

um the only thing about that night

 

specifically that i remember

 

is they they give you a like if you're

 

if you're up if you're in the finalists

 

and you're

 

and you're you're going to be one of the

 

people that's sitting in the lincoln

 

center

 

auditorium and you know they're going to

 

call your name or whatever they send

 

everyone these lists of questionnaires

 

or whatever and they always have it they

 

had a theme for each

 

um award ceremony each year and the year

 

that

 

i won the thing i think the open theme

 

was like food in movies or something so

 

they sent us this long list of

 

things you had to fill out and you know

 

i probably you know had had a couple

 

drinks and

 

filled it out you know like hate send

 

went back to them or whatever

 

but they do this thing where like if

 

they call out your name and then you

 

have to walk up on the stage and then

 

they put this

 

you know little metal around you um and

 

then while you're doing that

 

there's a narrator kind of like oh i

 

want to say almost the same

 

kind of uh accent as the narrator from

 

the great chefs

 

uh yesterday and it's slightly different

 

like it's like sort of new orleans sort

 

of like this like weird wicked

 

stepmother madonna thing

 

it's like french but not french yes

 

exactly and then

 

but the thing that i had one of the

 

questions was like if you could go to

 

any movie

 

at any time what would you see and who

 

would you take you know just like

 

totally stupid or whatever like i said i

 

probably had a couple like

 

like a beauty pageant exactly it's

 

totally like that you know but anyway so

 

like i remember what i had written down

 

on that thing was

 

i would take tomato de plenty from the

 

screamers

 

in 1972 to see the baltimore premiere of

 

pink flamingos and i

 

remember writing that whole sentence

 

down

 

and then apparently because you could

 

you could actually watch this thing

 

online

 

as i was walking to the stage the wicked

 

stepmother madonna accent narrator

 

said that exact thing and even got

 

tomato du plenty's name

 

correctly pronounced it wasn't tomato or

 

whatever

 

so i think that was how i really won and

 

which i didn't know at the time

 

but then you know like after winning

 

this like ridiculous award

 

go outside and i have like 80 text

 

messages but one was from my friend

 

nicole and she was like

 

tamato do plenty you [ __ ] [ __ ]

 

you know like i was like all right

 

i have one so you didn't win the

 

swimsuit competition you won like the

 

proper etiquette addiction part exactly

 

exactly for sure

 

i feel like esoteric reference should be

 

totally you know should be something in

 

these awards

 

so we didn't actually talk about

 

superiority burger and like

 

what what what was the mission there

 

other than to get

 

out of cooking for rich people like what

 

else what is what else is it all about

 

i'm not vegetarian i i was for a very

 

long time like

 

the whole time i was in bands in the 90s

 

vegetarian maybe like kind of like

 

leaning towards vegan

 

um everyone i knew was like that anyone

 

that wasn't we thought was weird

 

you know i remember like being at a

 

grocery store in richmond in like the

 

mid 90s and like having like a jar of

 

peanut butter and like you know

 

sorry to bring back up tempeh but a

 

thing of tempe and then like

 

seeing like someone in front of you and

 

maybe they had a motorhead shirt on

 

but they were buying bacon to be like oh

 

you know like well i guess they're not

 

going to be my friend um

 

so like i've eaten a lot of really

 

really terrible vegetarian food over the

 

years

 

and because i had worked in restaurants

 

only making desserts i never had to deal

 

with meat i never had to break down a

 

lamb or

 

like turn like butcher any sort of meat

 

or like you know take a cow's tongue and

 

rip the skin off and braise like that i

 

was just making

 

cakes and ice cream and stuff like that

 

and while there were eggs involved like

 

you know like i've always had kind of

 

like a

 

wiggly area for eggs like they don't i'm

 

i'm kind of fine with them i don't use

 

them at the restaurant but

 

i never had to deal with so i always

 

like so only the only

 

thing i knew how to cook were like

 

vegetable fruit desserts and stuff like

 

that so

 

when i decided i was going to try to

 

figure out a way to do my own thing like

 

i was like well of course it's going to

 

be vegetarian even though like

 

at the time i wasn't and at the time now

 

um

 

but i kind of skew towards vegetarian

 

and that's what i know how to do

 

so that's what the place became i've had

 

opportunities over the years to kind of

 

like

 

turn the restaurant a completely 100

 

vegan restaurant

 

um but i always refuse because i don't

 

want to be

 

pigeonholed into like a very tight

 

category so

 

even though the restaurant now i would

 

say is like 98

 

vegan like i'll still make ice cream

 

with milk because

 

number one that's that was my job for

 

almost one that's what i know how to do

 

and vegan ice cream is difficult so

 

that's kind of like how it is and then

 

like i said when i bring up like the

 

bummed outness of like only cooking for

 

rich people i always wanted to make sure

 

that we had food that was as cheap as

 

possible

 

and almost to the point of like

 

self-sabotage at certain points of the

 

five years um because

 

and like i said not to bring up flex

 

your head again but if it wasn't for

 

flex your head

 

maybe i would have the most expensive uh

 

luxurious vegetarian restaurant in all

 

of new york city but

 

i don't i have a place where everything

 

is as cheap as humanly possible

 

while still using the best possible

 

things i can find

 

i go to the green market in union square

 

like three four times a week even in the

 

winter you know and

 

have really good relationships with all

 

the farmers and like you know

 

are always trying to get like oh what do

 

you have what do you have now what do

 

you have now what do you have now you

 

know and i'm in line

 

with the same people that are buying

 

stuff at the really really expensive

 

restaurants um

 

and there have been times where

 

superiority burger hasn't been doing so

 

well financially

 

because it's so small and stuff like

 

snow or

 

rain or literally any bad weather

 

affects us deeply i'll just spend my own

 

money buying the stuff at the market

 

because it's important to get this

 

really good stuff

 

and then sell it for almost nothing or

 

like even at cost you know

 

and like to say that that isn't related

 

to

 

crass and discord records or whatever

 

like of course it is you know like

 

and sometimes i like get home at night

 

i'm like wow

 

[ __ ] oh stupid you know but at the same

 

time like i love all that stuff and like

 

that was part of

 

me becoming who i am so like i can't get

 

rid of i don't think it's just crass i

 

think that's part of being italian

 

hey i'm gonna i'm gonna you know work

 

myself into the dirt just for a

 

principal

 

right yeah yeah i know i i mean you

 

worked at italian restaurant did that

 

wear off on you

 

i mean i mean i pretty much worked at

 

only kind of italian or

 

italian-ish restaurants the whole time

 

so uh

 

yeah for sure so you had you had uh john

 

hilts who never wears pants or at least

 

at up to a certain point he never wore

 

pants and

 

and then you got all these italians and

 

he's refusing to

 

you know back down i mean is that normal

 

like do do all like good restaurants go

 

to the market

 

in the morning or is there just is there

 

really like a big machine that they

 

usually use

 

it depends it honestly depends there are

 

you know there are people like myself

 

that want to get the most awesome [ __ ]

 

all the time

 

and then there are places where like

 

that maybe that's not that much of a

 

concern or

 

maybe they don't actually physically go

 

to the market maybe they get it from

 

a middleman who buys stuff at the market

 

and sells it

 

secondary um because there's there's a

 

whole thing with like when you

 

when you work in a restaurant especially

 

if you're like the owner of the

 

restaurant or whatever you're just

 

completely focused on the place and some

 

people won't even leave there

 

they like go to work and they go home

 

and that's it you know even going to the

 

market or something might be seen as

 

like you know that's a waste of time i

 

need to be

 

um but i've been to really really fancy

 

restaurants where they don't use

 

anywhere near the quality or price range

 

of stuff that i use and sell for seven

 

bucks and they're

 

selling it for like 100 and you know i

 

always get a little jolt when

 

that happens and like and it doesn't

 

happen very often because it's not like

 

i'm always going to place like that but

 

occasionally

 

you know it's kind of part of the job

 

like hey you know like i'm gonna let's

 

go

 

you know it's like a good staff

 

experiment to like gather up a bunch of

 

people

 

that work at superiority we're gonna be

 

like all right let's go to this super

 

fancy restaurant in midtown and like see

 

what they got um and then especially

 

when what restaurant i'm not gonna talk

 

[ __ ]

 

but you know like um but it's just like

 

uh

 

i i really enjoy and like that's also a

 

good conversation when we're like

 

walking back these villages like no see

 

like we're using really good [ __ ] and

 

selling it for really cheap and

 

everybody can get it and it's totally

 

accessible like that's

 

the thing and like a lot of times you

 

know i tend to get a lot of people that

 

want to work at the restaurant that

 

have either come up in in kind of like

 

different subcultures

 

not unlike punk rock where they'll

 

they'll kind of get it but a lot of

 

times it's really fun when there's like

 

someone who doesn't understand that

 

stuff at all

 

and like you know can't quote dick's

 

lyrics

 

or what era of black sabbath they love

 

but at the same time we're like

 

you're doing this thing and i i'm super

 

into it i don't totally understand it

 

but you know i'll go with it i'm going

 

to take a guess that you you've kind of

 

built a culture

 

a superiority burger has have you had

 

problems with people

 

being able to assimilate into it yeah

 

for sure even like

 

a lot of times it's like sometimes

 

people will come in that like do

 

understand like kind of like the punk

 

rock diy subculture and then

 

but that in like a playing music and

 

putting out records and putting on

 

scenes thing

 

and then taking it to like working 60 to

 

80 hours a week in a tiny little space

 

all brand together and making food

 

a lot of times it doesn't exactly mesh

 

um at the same time you know there are

 

there

 

like i said there are people that have

 

nothing to do with that to come in and

 

like totally get it

 

it really kind of depends on the person

 

you said you weren't going to talk [ __ ]

 

but

 

in your book you've got a whole section

 

about best quits and you don't name any

 

names

 

i want to hear the best quits at

 

superiority burger

 

um i mean who dropped the ball who

 

disappeared

 

i mean honestly like there it happens

 

all the time like people you don't make

 

a lot of money working in a restaurant

 

like i'm the first person that will tell

 

you that because

 

i spent you know years working in

 

restaurants making five dollars seven

 

dollars eight dollars an hour

 

not actually that long ago you know so i

 

kind of at this point

 

i'm sort of at peace with it and i

 

understand it like if someone's just

 

like [ __ ] this i'm out

 

i'm leaving this sucks or just

 

disappears like i'm kind of i'm kind of

 

fine with it like a lot of times we'll

 

like especially if we get someone that's

 

working in the restaurant that kind of

 

gets it or whatever like we just tell

 

them like all right listen when you do

 

leave

 

either put in your two weeks notice

 

finish strong

 

we high five you know like we trade

 

records over the course of the next few

 

years and like we have a good time

 

or just [ __ ] destroy everything like

 

blow up the entire restaurant like like

 

nothing in between please brooks have

 

you had that moment yet where you've had

 

to give the talk that you got

 

when you went to the hotel have you had

 

to give that to anyone go don't do that

 

that's stupid like stay here has that

 

happened to you on the other side of the

 

table

 

oh yeah totally totally totally um but

 

like i said i

 

i you know i've been doing this for like

 

we're pushing like 20 years at this

 

point

 

over 20 years so like i understand when

 

people need to leave to go do something

 

like maybe if it's someone that i really

 

really liked like that's usually the

 

thing that's the most crushing to me is

 

like if i really really like this person

 

i really really like their work

 

and i like how they fit into the place

 

and they kind of like out of nowhere

 

just split um

 

that like even in the past couple of

 

years i've gotten better with that

 

it's like being like okay no i

 

understand i mean that's just something

 

of like being a boss that like you don't

 

get taught

 

anywhere like in any school or or

 

working

 

in any way like that's just a matter of

 

like repetition of things happening a

 

lot of people would disagree with that

 

and i

 

disagree with them hey charlie wait hold

 

on

 

i've been holding all the trolley

 

questions charlie do you have any

 

any thoughts we were suggesting i was

 

suggesting i'm not going to give anyone

 

credit for this

 

that rooks try shim pipple gelato

 

would you eat chip pickle gelato do you

 

do you endorse that gosh what [ __ ]

 

pipple gelato

 

[Laughter]

 

that's a little secret brooks we just

 

cut charlie in after the interview

 

he's not actually on any of them it's

 

like the um it's like on the uh

 

the first born against seven inch where

 

they had to like uh put the crash them

 

oh it was that thing wow i thought you i

 

thought you were gonna say they replaced

 

someone completely because i've

 

definitely done that in recordings that

 

i've been on where we're like we're just

 

gonna replace all those bass lines

 

oh yeah yeah for sure yeah it's totally

 

fine it's cool

 

i i have ghosts played on two lps

 

uh hold on let's go back to the vegan

 

why you're not a vegan restaurant i feel

 

like

 

vegan restaurants attract people who

 

order off the menu and don't know

 

anything different what do you think

 

about that um sure yeah

 

i mean yeah i mean in general like bill

 

is that because there's meat on the menu

 

no i'm saying there's there's it's a

 

vegan menu like there's everything they

 

could eat

 

except those are the people who can't

 

eat even more than that

 

right then they're like oh well i have

 

an allergy oh i don't like avocados

 

so if i go to a vegan restaurant i can

 

pull like uh wait around the side

 

can you get me the real meat i mean

 

that's that's the opposite

 

i mean that sounds like charlie you're

 

saying that you're one of those people

 

on the opposite side of the spectrum

 

well i mean for me part of the reason

 

that i have made sure that the

 

restaurant isn't like kind of

 

pigeon-holed in this like

 

it's a vegan restaurant i'm definitely

 

on the opposite side of the spectrum

 

charlie's like when you sort of get a

 

song on the radio like you're like

 

driving through like a really desolate

 

area and you sort of get me

 

and then like it cuts out and you're

 

like i really just want the part where

 

he does the voiceover

 

you were saying i was gonna say like uh

 

i don't know if this answers a question

 

but this is something that actually

 

comes up at the restaurant a lot because

 

a lot of the people that work at the

 

restaurants actually are vegan or

 

vegetarian or i mean we have all sorts

 

of

 

a wide range of people that work in the

 

restaurant dietary speaking but a lot of

 

times if people are vegan

 

they know that like even just like

 

family meal staff meal at

 

superior burger they can eat anything

 

and like they can order anything they

 

want off the menu and

 

grab it and then go eat it you know

 

whereas like a lot of other restaurants

 

that they have to like they'll be it's a

 

lot of conversations like well what's

 

the vegan option

 

and it's usually something kind of like

 

not that awesome

 

so like that's kind of the thing for

 

people that are vegan is like they're

 

used to

 

only getting the not that awesome thing

 

at the restaurant while all their

 

friends that eat other things get the

 

awesome stuff you know so

 

um some that's kind of one of the things

 

that we do

 

at the place is like there are things

 

that we make vegan that

 

would actually be a lot easier if i

 

didn't but because

 

i'm into the accessibility of it and i

 

want everyone to be able to come in and

 

get something i mean part of that is

 

based on space too because the place is

 

so small like when we first started we

 

would have things where we would have

 

like say

 

mozzarella on something and then like we

 

would make a vegan version of it too

 

but like we ran out of space so like i

 

was like all right well at least for

 

this it's all going to be [ __ ] vegan

 

so you know um so it's not necessarily

 

like an ethical thing for me it's more

 

of like

 

i just i want you know like it's like

 

like you said it's like i'm italian i

 

want everyone to be happy i want

 

everyone to eat a lot of food

 

i want them to come in and like leave

 

and be like that place was [ __ ] great

 

you know like and if they can't get a

 

certain thing

 

and it's already a vegetarian restaurant

 

it's like it's kind of weird to have a

 

vegetarian restaurant

 

that also isn't kind of a vegan

 

restaurant so that's just kind of how

 

it's developed

 

okay well here's another way to phrase

 

it who's worse the super rich people or

 

the people go superiority burger as far

 

as like

 

asking for ridiculous things oh the

 

thing that i always say about

 

the customer base that we have at the

 

restaurant at superior burger now um

 

that i love

 

is that like most restaurants like if

 

you're the owner of a restaurant or the

 

staff of a restaurant there's

 

probably 95 of the people that come to

 

that restaurant

 

that are just the worst you don't you

 

don't want to look at them you don't

 

want to talk to them you just want their

 

money you just want them

 

their money feed them and they like get

 

the [ __ ] out whereas like

 

at superiority burger because it's so

 

small and it's so weird

 

it's like flipped like 95 of the people

 

that come are like amazing and i love

 

them and like i want to hang out with

 

them like and maybe there's like five

 

percent that are like

 

have a lot of problems or have issues

 

with this being this way or

 

or whatnot you know so it's kind of

 

flipped and part of that

 

is like kind of the culture that we

 

built there where it's it's like kind of

 

like a tough

 

love thing when you come to the register

 

but it's also like we really like

 

youtube yeah

 

is it does it go hand in hand with the

 

weird hours you keep changing the hours

 

up did you ever have to throw anybody

 

out would you say did you ever throw

 

anything out did you ever have to throw

 

anybody out

 

oh that's a good question oh yeah yeah

 

you know what

 

not that many and we've thrown out maybe

 

four people total over five years so

 

like uh

 

i like to for just being [ __ ] total

 

dicks

 

um and then one person threw themself

 

out

 

like will probably claim that i threw

 

them out but i absolutely did not

 

that there you go was there ever a food

 

fight

 

definitely was that's a good question

 

food fight yeah it was their

 

food fight in the restaurant no no never

 

never never like

 

it's just like because i have no problem

 

filling the coffee or throwing it

 

that's right well you have no problem

 

throwing any burger charlie yes this is

 

true no

 

kitchens are so hard to clean and like

 

why would you like have a food fight

 

like have a food have a food fight

 

outside i guess maybe i don't want to

 

clean that [ __ ] yeah

 

so brooks you were talking about how 95

 

of uh the audience is good but i feel

 

like most of the people say like

 

especially with music that the worst

 

part of success

 

is that as you get bigger you get out of

 

the john hilton's basement

 

that 95 of your crowd is gonna suck

 

because what most people appreciate

 

about you is that you're ahead of them

 

and that you can do better

 

than them is that not a common thing in

 

food wow interesting i don't know that's

 

like a that's a weird one because i was

 

actually thinking about something

 

kind of like adjacent to this the other

 

day when i was walking to the market

 

which is like my favorite part of the

 

morning was when i get to walk to the

 

market alone

 

down 12th street i live in the east

 

village and like keep walking get to the

 

market

 

i just got into union square and i was

 

thinking about if you're in a band

 

and you like get some kind of success

 

like when you if especially if you start

 

out in like a

 

punk rock diy scene like you play in

 

different cities and or you play in your

 

own city and like everyone that comes to

 

the show

 

are your friends and then you play in

 

other cities and it can be

 

like you know as remote as like minot

 

north dakota or something but like the

 

people that come to that show

 

would be your friends in that city um

 

whereas like you kind of like as

 

you're in a band and maybe you get more

 

popular or more successful or start

 

making more money

 

all of a sudden you're not kind of not

 

playing to your friends anymore

 

you're playing to this whole new group

 

of people that you don't actually know

 

and maybe don't even like but all of a

 

sudden it becomes your job um i don't

 

know how specifically that relates to

 

like a restaurant thing

 

but it's i mean it's not there's there's

 

a lot of times where like especially

 

like

 

you know when people have like talked to

 

me and tried to be like well being in a

 

band is

 

exactly like being a restaurant it's

 

like uh you know there's just

 

similarities

 

but it's not like everything doesn't

 

have an exact correlation well you

 

mentioned before that you know people

 

try to make some deals with you

 

is there an equivalent to selling out

 

like is there is there a reason you ran

 

away from them or you

 

might have self-sabotaged it is there

 

something to look internally there

 

i mean i just really like having this

 

like tiny little place

 

in the east village where i can be there

 

all the time and talk to people and

 

kind of do whatever i want and not like

 

beholden to like anyone with a bunch of

 

money

 

or having a huge amount of rent or that

 

kind of thing

 

the fact that we've been able to operate

 

for five years at this point without

 

with only having six places to sit

 

and not selling any alcohol which is

 

that's how all restaurants survive

 

is selling beer and wine and booze you

 

know we don't have it i'm not opposed to

 

it but it's just

 

the place is too small and and then also

 

not selling any meat so like we have a

 

bunch of stuff

 

against us from the beginning and i

 

don't know i like the fact that it's

 

kind of like

 

small and mighty and it's not like a

 

normal restaurant at all

 

in any way i mean have you been around

 

long enough to make sure you're not a

 

fad like

 

i was asking around like what makes you

 

not

 

[ __ ] dogs 2015

 

well for sure this is something i

 

thought about like it's like a

 

vegetarian restaurant and like there

 

have been like even like we've been

 

around for five years there have been

 

like little waves where like vegetarian

 

and vegan

 

food has like been really cool or

 

popular and then it goes away and it

 

comes back again you know

 

um and i've also had people tell me

 

since the beginning almost that like

 

impossible burgers and beyond burgers

 

are gonna put me out of business

 

which i always think is kind of funny

 

because like that's completely different

 

from what we do

 

we're doing it's like actual cooking it

 

just happens to be vegetarian like this

 

is stuff we're getting at the farmers

 

market

 

and processing it and like you know

 

chopping up vegetables

 

takes a lot of [ __ ] labor and time

 

and space you know like

 

whereas like if you're just selling

 

frozen pre-made

 

vegetarian burger patties like you know

 

if i wanted to take it easy i could

 

easily do that

 

i could change everything around and

 

like people would probably like sell

 

some frozen french fries people would

 

probably [ __ ] totally dig it

 

well let me ask you a question if you

 

don't serve meat or

 

alcohol how do you make the cocoa bit

 

of it i make that for myself in my

 

apartment yeah with a nice bottle of

 

bordeaux so you're not breaking any laws

 

then is that how that works

 

no not yet it's like it's like the it's

 

like the sign and the pizzeria that says

 

this case is for display only right

 

exactly yeah yeah

 

that's one of my favorites for sure i

 

walked into pizzeria once and i was like

 

who would want to buy this case

 

like i understand it's for display only

 

but i don't want this case in my house

 

why don't you run in your house what am

 

i going to put in it like vcr oh yeah

 

yes or vcr will it fit

 

definitely let's talk about superiority

 

burger japan how did that happen

 

and how is that not related to special

 

funding or someone getting involved that

 

sounds like a

 

huge undertaking just by the distance

 

right oh for sure for sure like i said

 

like throughout the years people have

 

always kind of approached us and been

 

like oh let's open a superiority burger

 

in toronto let's open one in london

 

let's open one in uh nashville you know

 

let's open one in los angeles

 

it's always kind of like because it's

 

usually what after

 

you talk for a while it's like wow that

 

sounds like a lot of work and

 

i will make no money so like what's the

 

point and then i remember always saying

 

i mean maybe just saying to myself like

 

the only way that i would ever do this

 

or anything like that would be if we

 

could do one in

 

japan tokyo specifically and then i

 

don't know if i just willed that from

 

like thinking like that or

 

drunkenly talking like that but

 

eventually it happened

 

you know like about a year ago we were

 

approached by this amazing dude who's

 

vegan

 

japanese guy and was like i want to open

 

up a superiority burger in japan

 

and there were a lot of like

 

negotiations about we want to do things

 

a certain way

 

like this and like this and then

 

eventually they probably wanted to have

 

sake right

 

uh they actually do have alcohol there

 

but it's like

 

they don't have sake but um the uh

 

i'm actually not like i said i'm not

 

opposed to alcohol it's just the our

 

current place is too small for it

 

um but you know i love everything about

 

japan um wrangler roots toward tokyo

 

uh osaka kobe like in 2004 it was

 

it was the first time i'd ever actually

 

been out of the country at all because

 

every other band i was ever in

 

was full of such difficult characters

 

that we

 

that mcfeeters you're talking about

 

not stomach feeders and me so

 

i include myself in that difficult

 

character but you made it there

 

and and i feel like when you play a show

 

in japan they always feed you after and

 

it's good

 

yeah that's the that's what's missing

 

from punk rock in

 

in the united states people just go to

 

denny's or diner yeah

 

the food you get in japan is like it's

 

like another level so

 

and it's funny because when we actually

 

i was in tokyo from basically

 

thanksgiving of last year until march

 

like literally

 

a week before the shutdown started so i

 

spent a good chunk of time kind of

 

getting the restaurant set up and

 

in a way like it was weird because i was

 

so excited

 

to be in in tokyo kind of basically

 

living there at that point and then also

 

opening up my own this is like my

 

restaurant having

 

a branch in tokyo that's [ __ ] crazy

 

but then

 

i met some people there and they would

 

take me to other restaurants

 

other places to get food and i'd just be

 

like oh my god it's so stupid this

 

superior burger sucks you know like why

 

are we even bothering you know yeah but

 

did you feel that way playing in a band

 

too

 

i played in japan and every band i

 

played with i was like wow i feel like

 

such a schmuck for even

 

traveling this far i suck so bad for

 

sure for sure

 

100 did you find the japanese brooks

 

no i mean he kind of he kind of found us

 

and like like

 

totally cool cool guy and like just

 

really believes in

 

the the place you know like obviously

 

like covet happening basically

 

as soon as it opened kind of like threw

 

a wrench in the whole works and the

 

olympics were supposed to be in japan

 

this summer and that was like everyone

 

was kind of like

 

everyone in the city like there had been

 

construction going on for years and like

 

the thing

 

like even like that tiny little stupid

 

vegetarian restaurant like you know it

 

all got affected by that the same way

 

that like we all got affected by

 

pandemic you know so i hope place sticks

 

around and lasts because you know

 

i really want to go back there because i

 

love tokyo and i really want to like

 

kind of see what happens like

 

serving this food over there you know

 

like one of the most amazing things

 

they have this incredible guy osabu and

 

he made

 

a menu it was only a couple months ago

 

like he made it and like i remember

 

going to tokyo especially the first time

 

and see

 

going to like fast food restaurants are

 

like most burger and there'd be this

 

amazing like one page full color menu

 

with like pictures

 

and he made a menu for sb japan that

 

kind of looked like that like it wasn't

 

like it wasn't trying to be cheeky or

 

anything it was just kind of like this

 

informative

 

like menu thing that people could pick

 

up and i was like i was so

 

touched and like kind of like reclamped

 

by the whole thing i was just like holy

 

[ __ ] like

 

and then i had a friend who actually

 

like came to do a pickup

 

at sb new york and he was like oh i saw

 

that menu

 

the the like full color menu with all

 

the photos

 

of the sp tokyo and like he's like that

 

means as

 

superiority burgers officially japanese

 

food

 

all right i got some fast questions here

 

which is the best woodhaven thai place

 

wait

 

woodhaven isn't that right we're in

 

queens do they have the good thai places

 

flushing

 

do you have a favorite

 

drop it over here louie

 

i am the kind of person that like like i

 

said i've lived in new york for

 

like about 14 years now but i'm always

 

at work

 

so i actually almost never leave where i

 

am currently living or working i'd have

 

trouble

 

if i worked where you were being as

 

close as i would be to academy records i

 

don't know if you're still a record

 

collector but i feel like i'd spend all

 

of my money

 

at that place because it's two blocks

 

away well luckily academy is only open

 

friday saturday and sunday now so i

 

can't actually

 

uh go there too often which is it's

 

funny you bring that up because

 

i actually went i went there when it was

 

two or three days ago

 

i got my very first kind of like adult

 

turntable this summer like an old

 

classic techniques and i never had like

 

a really good turntable ever and so i

 

finally like kind of like alphabetized

 

my records and organize them and then i

 

realized that like my record collection

 

[ __ ]

 

sucked so i had to like kind of like put

 

it into oversurvive this summer and like

 

i'm like all right

 

i can't just have it needs to be

 

diversified for sure you know but it was

 

funny because i remember

 

going up like leaving work and then

 

walking up to academy which is only a

 

couple blocks away which i've actually

 

never done

 

ever in the entire existence of the

 

restaurant the five years that it's been

 

opened because

 

basically i get into work and then i

 

work until i lock the door

 

unless i was in tokyo last like last

 

year i am the person that

 

does the final prep list and locks the

 

door turns out all the lights like

 

that's what i want like

 

i've never been the kind of person to be

 

like oh you do this you do this i'm

 

gonna go do something fun

 

so when i got to academy the other day i

 

was it was funny because i told adam the

 

guy that was working there i was like

 

feel a little nervous right now because

 

i've only ever done this one other time

 

ever like left work in the middle of

 

work and not told anyone and the only

 

other time that i'd actually done it was

 

the day

 

after we opened in 2015 the melvins

 

played this secret

 

show at an art gallery on great jones at

 

like 2 p.m in the afternoon i'd heard

 

about it and

 

people had come in the night before and

 

been like oh you're going to go to that

 

melvin show

 

and i was like well i just the

 

restaurant just opened like there's no

 

way you know anyway like i told everyone

 

i was going to the grocery store and

 

instead i ran as fast as possible to

 

great jones and like watch like three

 

songs and it was totally awesome because

 

there was no pa

 

except the vocal pa and it was kind of

 

like watching the melvins at a house

 

show and it was very fun and i watched

 

three songs and i ran back uh

 

but going to academy the other day but

 

you were able to go to tokyo so like you

 

can

 

say hey take over now is that a

 

milestone yes

 

100 but that is like a new thing as of

 

like

 

2019 last year like up until that point

 

i had spent

 

every second at the place um i had

 

finally kind of like built up

 

like a culture and a staff at the

 

restaurant where i could leave and

 

that's why

 

i agreed to do the tokyo and then like i

 

said obviously came back

 

open happens and everything's different

 

so now i'm back to being there every

 

second of every day which

 

is not a complaint i love every second

 

assuming everything turns out okay

 

you're gonna feel okay to do that again

 

like it sounds like you're getting out

 

of this i'm gonna work myself to death

 

forever i hope

 

yeah i know i mean i like i i make jokes

 

all the time like i am gonna [ __ ] die

 

have a heart attack and pass out and

 

that's it on this kitchen floor i'm like

 

that's totally cool

 

what time do you close normally well

 

it's different now because everything

 

is early i know everything's closed it's

 

like all that you're in all the yards

 

like what city we live in it's freaking

 

[ __ ] it sucks i hate it i hate

 

everything about it but it's an excuse

 

it's an excuse for people to keep

 

closing earlier

 

so they can make us like des moines iowa

 

or something

 

no longer the city that never sleeps the

 

city that goes to bed early

 

that's it yeah yeah i mean i can tell

 

you at least for us

 

like the reason why we've been closing

 

earlier is because well number one the

 

subway doesn't run

 

overnight anymore so we can't be over

 

that's bob and then also like you know

 

i have staff that like things are weird

 

now and they want to get home earlier

 

so like i mean i'm a [ __ ] psychopath

 

like i'll work until four in the morning

 

or whatever because i live

 

two blocks away but like i can't i'm not

 

gonna force my staff to do that it's

 

[ __ ] up i went to freaking georgia

 

diner the other night 11

 

20 and they they had the doors locked i

 

was like yanking on them and the manager

 

came up some yelling at me

 

hell yeah well at least the people from

 

des moines are moving out they're moving

 

out of des moines no they're moving out

 

of new york

 

i don't want to bum anybody out like do

 

you think there's going to be positive

 

things that come out of this

 

at least from your point of view i don't

 

know i can't imagine anything positive

 

coming out of vegan hamburgers

 

it's funny i agree with this guy that

 

showed up late

 

i only showed up late because i didn't

 

want to be there for the pre-show banter

 

technical questions so is there still a

 

thing in high-end restaurants where they

 

don't list any prices or was that like a

 

1980s thing well there's some places

 

that still do that like it's like if you

 

can't afford it you know you don't ask

 

kind of yeah i mean that's like part of

 

the reason that we have

 

the menu that we have like i wanted to

 

make sure everything at least when we

 

opened

 

nothing would be higher than nine

 

dollars like even like we didn't even

 

have anything that's ten dollars like

 

and we've had to change that during

 

covet especially because

 

there are certain things that are more

 

expensive now so like we have a sandwich

 

that's like 11

 

and like it crushes my soul because i

 

know i was like

 

everything has to be under nine dollars

 

always no matter what

 

and they could just give the excuse that

 

it's a shortage i

 

i somebody told me there's a national

 

co2 shortage i said what do people start

 

stop exhaling well you don't have any

 

carbonated drinks though right you're at

 

least unaffected by the co2

 

do you have tropical fantasy no i have a

 

special jug just for you man

 

don't believe the rumors i got a

 

question so you invented

 

this uh meatless hamburger then right i

 

didn't invent [ __ ]

 

i came up with a thing that uh people

 

seem to like because in the 80s

 

i read at white castle they said all of

 

white castle's meat comes from its own

 

plant

 

so i figured there must be a white

 

castle plant out there somewhere they

 

make the hamburgers from

 

but they've been doing it for like 100

 

years but botanically speaking i just

 

want to back up charlie here

 

charlie once convinced the vegan to eat

 

a surfing of white castles

 

well he didn't make it all the way

 

through like he ate the first one

 

he had a murder burger he ate the first

 

one and then he i think he bought three

 

and the second one he was doing good and

 

then he looked at it and it was over

 

i have a white castle question though i

 

i ate white castle three meals in a row

 

so white castle you gotta wait like 10

 

minutes for your burger

 

and there's a lot of people with black

 

eyes because of that that's right the

 

superiority burger on that scale

 

you gotta wait a little longer sometimes

 

ten minutes is short you're talking like

 

20 minutes well the thing with the

 

restaurant is

 

it kind of looks like a fast food

 

restaurant and everything is kind of

 

packaged like a fast food restaurant but

 

it's kind of a the whole thing is kind

 

of a joke because it's not at all i mean

 

we kind of like at least in the old days

 

like you know nobody has to wait too

 

long

 

but at the same time sometimes you know

 

when we're pretty busy like

 

people would have to wait but part of

 

that is like i like the fact that like

 

people think of it as like a fast food

 

restaurant when it's

 

when actually we're getting all this

 

farmers market produce and like cooking

 

it and making different salads and soups

 

and whatever and like you know it

 

doesn't

 

it's uh it's it's it's meant to be kind

 

of like a prank on

 

restaurants itself well my experience is

 

that you have to wait a long time for

 

those meatless burgers because when we

 

use the barbecue

 

in the back abc no rio we had to wait

 

for zach to get there with the tofu

 

burgers from brooklyn

 

that's right well they also like certain

 

people wanted to be uncooked on a

 

different grill and everything so it was

 

it was like a kosher kitchen time thing

 

and some people thought we were going to

 

cook it on a urinal

 

actually my favorite sort of white

 

castle thing these days is is because

 

they sell

 

like impossible burger sliders you know

 

and then i remember

 

sliders bogus man they were murder

 

burgers or belly bombers

 

the is a midwest thing gotcha man

 

but when they started doing that there

 

was something where they said like

 

they're being cooked on a different

 

griddle which means one of two things

 

and either means that like every white

 

castle

 

has just had this empty space where they

 

put in this new griddle where they're

 

going to cook the vegetarian things

 

or they're just lying so like either way

 

i'm kind of into

 

i mean i feel like white castle's whole

 

thing is the efficiency

 

every burger fits perfectly square on

 

that griddle right for sure

 

that statement sounds against their

 

whole business model really exactly

 

i mean i'm a huge white castle fan so i

 

got no beef with white cats i see what

 

you did there brooks

 

wait does that attention all that no

 

beef with white castle

 

i'm just trying to polish the third here

 

it comes from its own plant

 

what do you think about stewed prunes i

 

actually [ __ ] absolutely

 

adore prunes i think they're totally

 

delicious stewed

 

it would mean on how it was stewed you

 

know like probably what you're thinking

 

i wouldn't like but or wouldn't approve

 

of but like there's ways to make prunes

 

absolutely delicious for sure i mean i

 

went to public school and like

 

sometimes that was the dessert and like

 

there was only a certain

 

group of kids that would eat them and

 

they did not eat them daintily

 

so i i'm i'm a little bit i have a

 

little bit of ptsd

 

on stewed prunes so maybe you can do you

 

ever have it as a special

 

obviously not you know you call it

 

something else but yeah i mean i

 

[ __ ] love prince like end of the

 

summer it's weird to say end of the

 

summer now but like this is kind of like

 

the talent of the uh

 

the market season where i think only the

 

past couple weeks haven't they been

 

around but like

 

all summer long there's these beautiful

 

plums and like all different colors or

 

whatever

 

but then the very very end like late

 

august september october

 

you get the prune plums and they're like

 

kind of gross and like they're not good

 

raw

 

and you have to cook them you have to

 

stew them um but these are the

 

uh this very specific plums the italian

 

prune plums that that get turned into

 

prunes

 

that you buy that your school bought and

 

stewed them and maybe read them you know

 

right where do you get the good ones

 

well the thing is in the school

 

cafeteria

 

i know that well the thing is like you

 

just have to cook them like they're

 

as opposed to like it's funny because

 

it's like right after like beautiful

 

peaches and nectarines and plums you get

 

the prim plums which are just not good

 

raw

 

but you have to like kind of cook them

 

and make them delicious and like what we

 

have done

 

to make different sorbets like in the

 

past couple months like since like the

 

season has ended is like we

 

like kind of split them and add some

 

organic sugar and cook them with

 

hibiscus sleeves

 

and it kind of like it's like it's like

 

a like a pastrami almost

 

yeah no it needs work it's like yeah

 

it's like the short it's like the short

 

rib of fruit

 

all right i'm going to try it again i'm

 

facing my fears

 

i'm going to eat stew foods i'm going to

 

try it i i i got advice from the expert

 

prunes get a bad rap peru's can be

 

amazing so did you ever try to buy

 

500 milks in the school cafeteria never

 

never once because my friend adam took

 

out a 50 the milk juice the chocolate

 

milk used to be 10 cents and he took out

 

a 50 dollar bill

 

and asked the lunch lady for 500 milks

 

did he get him

 

no they flipped they started flipping

 

out and then they started trying to buy

 

them in you know

 

pieces like 10 and 10 and then they

 

wouldn't sell more than one milk to

 

anybody like one kid wanted to give me

 

two chocolate milks like get out of here

 

we know what we're on to you

 

but what was he gonna do with him though

 

charlie it doesn't matter what he's

 

gonna do he's just gonna do it

 

i just thought i was wondering if there

 

was a plan if it was just like i got 50

 

bucks let's see what happened

 

he had 50 bucks i got to buy 500 milks

 

and i would have figured out something

 

to do with them

 

that's kind of like the uh not to get

 

pastry nerd on you guys but like when

 

you make chocolate ice cream and it

 

sucks

 

chocolate ice cream sucks when you make

 

chocolate oh you talk about that vegan

 

chocolate ice cream no i know come on

 

calm down my friend

 

when you make chocolate ice cream and it

 

sucks when you're like tasting it at the

 

restaurant

 

and you're like ah it sucks and the

 

thing is like oh it just tastes like

 

[ __ ] chocolate milk dave you got any

 

any other questions before we wrap this

 

up

 

yeah i wanted to i wanted to ask brooks

 

you know as far as

 

um you know what you've accomplished

 

both in music and

 

uh when it comes to to to cooking is

 

there anything left on the table that

 

you were just like

 

still waiting to do whether it's a

 

restaurant concept or

 

a certain recipe or even just going on

 

tour one more time is there anything

 

else that you uh

 

you want to accomplish oh god i mean

 

like i love love

 

love going on tour but i never ever want

 

to do it again so erase that one for

 

sure

 

someday i would like to have maybe a big

 

a slightly bigger restaurant where

 

you know like maybe four people could

 

sit down at the same time that can't

 

happen right now you know

 

someday like i mean i guess that's sort

 

of like pie in the sky at this point so

 

but uh

 

a lot of times people would like say

 

like oh you have this place

 

what are you gonna do next what are you

 

gonna do next and i'm always like this

 

[ __ ] weird

 

awesome restaurant in the east village

 

and i love every second of it like

 

that's [ __ ] good enough like

 

it doesn't i'm not looking to be like a

 

[ __ ] mobile and a hundred percent

 

that's like comes from

 

the [ __ ] stupid-ass music that i love

 

so much i mean that's that sounds like

 

every

 

one of my favorite places to eat you

 

know it's like there's someone who's

 

been there forever and they like what

 

they do and that's why their food's good

 

right like those are the places that i

 

want to go like where you know like the

 

owner's there

 

and like they're it's gonna be good and

 

like you become a regular and there's

 

like you can get things that nobody else

 

can get and it's just like

 

it's not elitist and it's not like for

 

rich people it's like kind of like

 

forever

 

for anyone so brooks i'm gonna take back

 

the ian makai steve albini

 

uh question and i'm gonna i'm gonna

 

posit that maybe you're the mike watt

 

of culinary so i think that makes sense

 

i'm cool with that

 

mcconnell i like that the amount of

 

ingredients you're using i mean it's

 

keeping the cost down while still giving

 

people quality yeah i mean

 

minutemen are one of my favorites

 

forever i'm i'm totally down with that

 

that's it kids the gig is up the cops

 

are here and your mom is going jails

 

hospitals and all your friends houses

 

wondering where you've been

 

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